Thursday, December 31, 2009

Shopping, Parisian Style


Now before you laugh, let me explain myself. As ridiculously stereotypical as it sounds, the French really do buy baguettes like this daily and carry them around. Of course, in their defense, by "carry them around" I mean that they take them home. However, since most people in Paris walk or take the metro, to take something home means to carry it around in public, sometimes for quite a distance. That said, it is highly entertaining to me to think that they live up to such a silly stereotype, and naturally, I joined the bandwagon with enthusiasm. Few things make you feel more French than carrying around a daily baguette.

Even better, we have discovered the Parisian's secret to gourmet, fresh food. At first, I was quite befuddled at how the French, who are notoriously obsessed with good food (anyone seen Julie & Julia? If not, I HIGHLY recommend it) managed to survive without HEB. They have grocery stores, sure, but they are small, have a limited stock, and in my humble opinion fall FAR short of the glory known as a "big, new HEB" - a place where, as I have told many, angels sing to me when I enter. No joke. Honestly, there are a few larger stores (though the bigger the grocery store, then more expensive it seems to be), but even those do not compare to the beautiful mega stores we have in the great state of Texas. Fortunately, when we moved into our apartment, my sweet landlord told me of an "outdoor market" that takes place every Thursday and Saturday morning, right around the corner from our apartment. There, in two long rows which stretch along the boulevard by our house towards the Eiffel Tower (and yes, you can see it poised above the market though, unfortunately, I missed it in this picture), I have found what I was missing:
Here, all the local inhabitants come with their "chariots" or "caddies," a little cart on wheels that you pull behind you, and do their semi-weekly grocery shopping. Here, butchers, bakers, and candlestick makers come to sell their wares. Ok, there are not really candlestick makers, but there are stands selling meat, fish, breads, cheeses, pastries, and LOADS of fabulously fresh fruits and vegetables. Better yet, the people behind each counter KNOW their stuff. I am dreaming of the day when my French is good enough (I'm making progress, but it's slow) to tickle the ego of the butcher by asking him what the best method of cooking the langue de vache (cow's tongue) or entrecote de boeuf (a cut of beef from its side, though I'm not of its US equivalent) and listen to his experienced response. He will hold the rest of the line, telling me how to cook it and what to pair it with... I know because I've been the next person in line and waited while he spouted off his expertise. I'm not quite ready to tackle that because I'm sure he would be able to read on my face that I could only catch half of his meaning, but someday... Speaking of which, if anyone finds a book that includes pictures and explanations of French meats (their sources, cuts, and meaning), PLEASE let me know. Actually, one organized by type of food (cheeses, vegetables, meats, etc.) would be glorious. I can use a dictionary, but I have to look up each word as I come to it, rather than being able to study the science (or art, as they might call it) topically. Keep me posted. I must admit that the butchers are both the most interesting and the most disturbing:


But for those needing more aesthetically pleasing sights at the market, there are stands with gorgeous produce and fresh flowers:


I am definitely warming up to this method of shopping (despite the below-freezing temperatures at the market the past few weeks). Just for educational purposes, I should note that there are real shops for each of these things, as well. There are boulangeries/patiseries (bakeries), boucheries (butchers), charcuteries (delicatessens), fromageries (cheese shops), and so on. However, to shop at all of those different places is a day-long process, whereas to shop at the market takes an hour or so and is SO much fun. It is rather crowded (the first picture above is more true to its nature; the rest were taken late in the day as it began to clear out a bit), but it is worth the bustle. The food is unbeatable, the scene is memorable, and the people are so stereotypical that I can't help but smile each time. This, my friends, is true appreciation (admittedly borderline-obsession) of food.

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Back Online

So sorry for the long silence... Here is the run-down on what's been happening here (and why I haven't posted anything for a while):

December 11 - moved into the new apartment (hooray!) which did not yet have internet.
December 14 - finally got banking and cell phones set up (complicated...)
December 15 - Megan came to visit (yay!)
December 23 - Megan left :( and our internet boxes, cords, etc. finally arrived... with all instructions in French.
December 24 - Rhys came to visit (yay!)
December 26 - we attempted to set up the internet and ran into some trouble.
December 30 - Rhys left (I just took him to the metro... sad!) and we now have internet, but still no wireless.

That's the boring version, but I promise to post more exciting news with pictures shortly.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

The Paris Metro

As much as I love Paris’ public transportation, it does have its downsides. I should note that I have a fair perspective on metro systems, too, since I have used a metro (or a similar equivalent) in Washington DC, Rome, Madrid, London, and Amsterdam. With those comparisons, I must say that I find Paris’s metro, hands down, the most efficient, cost effective (for the rider), convenient, reliable, and clear. It even ranks among the top two or three cleanest in my experience. But… let me say that Paris metros and pregnant women are NOT a good match.

While I have to defend the French in arguing that the stereotype of the “smelly Frenchman” is not really accurate, I have certainly had my own aromatic experience while riding the metro lately. I also should admit that in my previous 4 trips to Paris, I occasionally noticed some smells in the metro, but for the most part did not find them particularly distracting or even, at times, noticeable. But now, when I descend into the metro station, a mixture of urine, stale air, and food (if there is a stand in the station selling the usual freshly baked bread and pain au chocolate, aka chocolate croissants) arrests my nostrils. Thankfully (though this is arguable), upon turning a corner, a breeze is often blowing from some distant, above-ground entrance/exit, bringing with it the smells of the Paris streets—air, exhaust, and cigarettes. Then, upon entering the train, such an olfactory melee faces me that my nose actually feels confused. When the train starts, the lovely scent of a group of sweaty junior-high boys standing in the car ahead of me smacks me in the face, but thankfully that smell dissipates as the acceleration of the car evens out. At which point, I can quickly smell the perfume of the little, gray-haired granny seated next to me in her sturdy black pumps, stockings, mid-calf length navy cashmere coat, and silk scarf—usually something mature and musky. However, as soon as she opens her mouth to yawn, I smell her onions and garlic from lunch. Then the car takes an abrupt turn, and the man standing above us reaches out his right arm to catch the handle and steady himself, pointing his armpit towards me and sending a distinct scent of (thankfully!) some kind of soap similar to Lever 2000, I think. As the car begins to slow, the hair product of the I’m-so-cool-I-work-hard-each-morning-to-give-myself-bedhead teenager tickles the end of my nose and puts a bad taste in my mouth.

The doors open. A woman squeezes by to exit—fish for lunch. A young mother steps on with her infant—baby powder. A middle-aged man moves to the empty seat behind me—definitely body odor. Not sure I can stay in this seat much longer. A young couple seats themselves across from me—Angel (a very distinct perfume in my opinion), or something very similar. A well-dressed businessman with his briefcase takes the seat left empty by the granny who exited at the last stop—new leather, though I’m not sure if it’s his shoes, which are plenty shiny, or his briefcase, in which I could almost see my reflection clearly enough to put on my make up. Oh when will my stop come…………..???

Finally, the doors open; I hold my breath as I force my way through the crowd at the door to the open platform; I step about three steps away from the metro doors, and I take a deep breath of… urine, stale air, and food. Oh well, at least if I want to vomit now because of it, it won’t be in someone else’s lap.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Home Sweet Home

Praise the Lord! I think we have a place to live!! Thank you all for your prayers. Lord willing, we will be moving into a beautiful Parisian apartment this Friday. Please don't judge it based on my photography skills... but so many of you have asked for pictures, I did my best. Here is our lovely street:
Though the bedrooms are rather small on US standards (and the bedding may not be my style), they're huge on Parisian standards (trust me, the fact that there is room to move around the bed is a good sign!):
The entryway has great charm: And it opens to the dining room/living room (which are connected) via beautiful french doors. I especially love the big windows with their picturesque views of the other Haussmann buildings (the style of Parisian buildings from the late 19th century) in the neighborhood:
Additionaly, I love the kitchen. Again, a bit small on US terms, but large, renovated, and beautiful on Parisian terms... And very functional: Probably the best part of all is that this apartment has BOTH a washer AND a dryer, and they have their own room so I can close the door, and that room has further storage space... It's heaven:

Ultimately, we are so thankful not only for such a beautiful place to live (on a lovely and quiet street, right by a park, about 3 minutes from grocery stores and plenty of other shopping, 10 minutes from the Eiffel Tower and Napolean's Tomb, 20 minutes from the Seine), but especially that the process was so quick and painless. Our realtor and the relocation company have been wonderful, and we are scheduled to move in this Friday - only one week after we found the apartment. Praise the Lord!! Now if someone would only build a Sonic down the street...

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Safe Arrival


Well, we made it safely to Paris about 24 hours ago. It was actually quite a miracle that we got all the way here with all our bags:

After our arrival, we wandered around the business district, waiting for our hotel room to be ready. Here is us (EXHAUSTED!) in front of L'Esplenade and L'Arch de la Defense:

This morning, here was the view from our hotel balcony; the hill in the distance is Montmartre (yes, the home of the Moulin Rouge) topped by L'Eglise du Sacre Couer (Church of the Sacred Heart)... Ah, Paris!

We're off to search for apartments today. May we find the right one and know it is where He would have us.