Even better, we have discovered the Parisian's secret to gourmet, fresh food. At first, I was quite befuddled at how the French, who are notoriously obsessed with good food (anyone seen Julie & Julia? If not, I HIGHLY recommend it) managed to survive without HEB. They have grocery stores, sure, but they are small, have a limited stock, and in my humble opinion fall FAR short of the glory known as a "big, new HEB" - a place where, as I have told many, angels sing to me when I enter. No joke. Honestly, there are a few larger stores (though the bigger the grocery store, then more expensive it seems to be), but even those do not compare to the beautiful mega stores we have in the great state of Texas. Fortunately, when we moved into our apartment, my sweet landlord told me of an "outdoor market" that takes place every Thursday and Saturday morning, right around the corner from our apartment. There, in two long rows which stretch along the boulevard by our house towards the Eiffel Tower (and yes, you can see it poised above the market though, unfortunately, I missed it in this picture), I have found what I was missing:
Here, all the local inhabitants come with their "chariots" or "caddies," a little cart on wheels that you pull behind you, and do their semi-weekly grocery shopping. Here, butchers, bakers, and candlestick makers come to sell their wares. Ok, there are not really candlestick makers, but there are stands selling meat, fish, breads, cheeses, pastries, and LOADS of fabulously fresh fruits and vegetables. Better yet, the people behind each counter KNOW their stuff. I am dreaming of the day when my French is good enough (I'm making progress, but it's slow) to tickle the ego of the butcher by asking him what the best method of cooking the langue de vache (cow's tongue) or entrecote de boeuf (a cut of beef from its side, though I'm not of its US equivalent) and listen to his experienced response. He will hold the rest of the line, telling me how to cook it and what to pair it with... I know because I've been the next person in line and waited while he spouted off his expertise. I'm not quite ready to tackle that because I'm sure he would be able to read on my face that I could only catch half of his meaning, but someday... Speaking of which, if anyone finds a book that includes pictures and explanations of French meats (their sources, cuts, and meaning), PLEASE let me know. Actually, one organized by type of food (cheeses, vegetables, meats, etc.) would be glorious. I can use a dictionary, but I have to look up each word as I come to it, rather than being able to study the science (or art, as they might call it) topically. Keep me posted. I must admit that the butchers are both the most interesting and the most disturbing:
But for those needing more aesthetically pleasing sights at the market, there are stands with gorgeous produce and fresh flowers:
I am definitely warming up to this method of shopping (despite the below-freezing temperatures at the market the past few weeks). Just for educational purposes, I should note that there are real shops for each of these things, as well. There are boulangeries/patiseries (bakeries), boucheries (butchers), charcuteries (delicatessens), fromageries (cheese shops), and so on. However, to shop at all of those different places is a day-long process, whereas to shop at the market takes an hour or so and is SO much fun. It is rather crowded (the first picture above is more true to its nature; the rest were taken late in the day as it began to clear out a bit), but it is worth the bustle. The food is unbeatable, the scene is memorable, and the people are so stereotypical that I can't help but smile each time. This, my friends, is true appreciation (admittedly borderline-obsession) of food.
